Shingle roofing comes down to what sits under the shingle. We strip the old layers, replace any rotted plywood or OSB sheathing, and roll out a synthetic underlayment instead of the tar paper and roofing felt used on older roofs.
Along the eave, where an ice dam forms, we lay a self-adhered ice-and-water shield. In the valley we run a metal liner before any shingle goes in, and we add snow guards so sliding ice does not shear the verge or tear off the gutter.
Access drives the schedule more than anything else. A tall rowhouse needs scaffold, a safety harness, and ladders set at the right pitch, and we check the rafters, truss, joist, and ridge beam before loading them with new weight.
What's Included
A full tear-off of every old layer, because we will not overlay or recover shingle over a deck nobody has checked for rot.
A look at the substrate under it all, replacing any soft plywood or OSB so the roof deck can carry the new weight.
A synthetic underlayment across the whole deck and a self-adhered ice-and-water shield at the eave and valley.
New drip edge at the rake and eave, a ridge cap and ridge vent at the peak, and soffit venting or an attic fan that keeps attic insulation dry and ventilation steady.
Flashing at every penetration: step flashing, chimney flashing, apron flashing, pipe flashing, a new vent boot or boot flashing, and counter-flashing at the sidewall.
Architectural shingle laid in staggered courses with ring-shank nails set to the right depth, from the starter course up to the hip and ridge, checked with a roofing square.
Gutter and downspout reinstall, soffit and fascia repair where rot has reached the rake board, and fresh sealant or caulk at the skylight and dormer.
A written roof estimate with line items, a final roof inspection with photos, and every bit of debris hauled off in one dumpster.
Signs You Need Shingle Roofing
Granule loss in the gutter, where bare asphalt spots mean the mat is at end-of-life wear and water will seep through.
Curling, buckling, or missing shingle tabs after a nor'easter, which leaves the field course open to wind uplift.
Ceiling stains or a damp rafter in the attic, the first sign water is wicking past the underlayment.
A sag or dip along the roofline, which usually means the roof deck or a truss member below has softened.
Rusted, loose, or missing flashing at the chimney, skylight, or dormer, where mastic and roof cement have flaked away.
Moss, algae streaking, or blistered and peeling shingle on a roof near the end of its warranty window.
Our Shingle Roofing Process
We start a roof inspection by walking the deck, checking attic moisture and the vapor barrier, and mapping each gable, valley, and penetration before we quote anything.
You get a written roof estimate, line by line, covering fastener type, underlayment grade, and any decking that needs replacing, built to the city's building code.
We set the dumpster, tie off on a safety harness, and place scaffold and ladders along the eave before anything comes down.
Old layers come off with a pry bar and roofing shovel, and a nail gun on an air compressor speeds the tear-off without overdriving nails.
Soft sheathing gets cut out. We check the purlin, batten, and counterbatten on steep sections, since rot often starts at the valley or a low overhang.
New shingle goes on in staggered courses, then we finish the ridge cap, magnet-sweep for nails, and walk the finished roof with you.
